Late September in Greece is definitely the time to visit. Unless you like crowds and high prices and crappy service. I have only been to Greece in the highest seasons and I still wanted to return again and again and again, so if that’s when you can go, definitely go! But if you can swing a trip in September, I would highly recommend it. Weather is still beautiful, even more beautiful because Athens isn’t oppressively hot, ships are empty, everything is just a little cheaper and most of the tourists have gone home. Well, most of the tourists under the age of 80 have gone home.
These past few weeks, I got a fast-forward glimpse of what my life might be like as an octogenarian and I like it! Yes, I’ll probably have a new hip or two, and might have to wear some ugly off-white platform shoes (but you have seen my man shoes, right? so that will be an easy transition) and I might need help, ummm more help, getting in and out of a dinghy, but I am still going to be traveling, dammit! I took a few boat trips and an island tour and I was probably one of the youngest travelers. There were a few couples in their late 30s or 40s, me, and then mostly 70 and 80+ year olds. And we all went on a magical Cocoon trip to Zakynthos.
Named after the son of the Dardanos (son of Zeus and founder of Troy), Zakynthos (commonly referred to as Zante, its Italian name), is an island in the Ionian Sea very close to Kefalonia. When I was first looking for places to stay, I was toying with staying there, but so happy I found the little beach-pebble house in Skala, because I am truly in love with Kefalonia. But I still wanted to visit so I booked a day trip on the Hermes with Captain Kostis. Kefalonia already seemed to be emptying and this was one of Captain Kostis’ last cruises of the season. I was surprised to see a line at the beach to board the boat and I was even more surprised to see the amount of people with canes and walkers and orthopedic shoes.
We all loaded up and set out for our 6 hour tour. Our first stop was Shipwreck Beach (or Paralia Navagio, παραλία ναυάγιο, in Greek). Also referred to as Smuggler’s Cove, the white sand and pebble beach is located on the northwest coast of Zakynthos and can only be reached by boat and apparently, base jumping. We had a great first mate, a Scottish guy named Mike, who could have also been Greek, very sarcastic and funny and he gave us the lowdown on the MV Panagiotis. The Scottish-built ship ran aground on this stunning beach in 1980, allegedly suspected and chased by the Greek Navy for smuggling cigarettes and booze. This a fun, quick little read from the Captain of the MV Panagiotis in defense of these false accusations if you’re interested http://zantewreck.com/.
We were the second boat to arrive so there were only a handful of people already on the beach. A base jumper was just gliding in as we disembarked, man I wish I had the skill to do that! I think I have the guts, but I know my eye/hand coordination would certainly land me in the sea or, even worse, smashed against a cliff. A very experienced base jumper died here a few years ago so I’ll save my guts for something else. Always google extreme sports-related deaths by location when you think “I could do that!”.
I was the only American on the boat, actually I think I was the only American left in Skala. Vagelis and Voula said they don’t get many Americans, there are many Greek Americans who have moved back, but the holiday makers are primarily British, Italian and German with a smattering of other Europeans. I met a bunch of Romanians and heard a lot of Russian being spoken. It occurred to me that I haven’t met many Russian travelers in the past.
Almost every conversation I’ve had with a new person ultimately comes around to Trump. Most people are nervous at first, worried I may be a supporter, which means they most likely have met some, and these conversations confirm some of my biggest fears. I am worried about so many domestic problems a Trump presidency would promote and exacerbate, but one of my main concerns is the global impact a grossly under qualified, inexperienced, unstable leader would have. However, I am also not a staunch Hillary supporter, but in my opinion this election is a no-brainer. I’m just sharing this article I read recently for shits and giggles because I keep having the same conversation and saying the same thing over and over (now in Spanish, which is super fun, by the way!). And even though I too do have romantic ideas formed entirely from my 4th grade political psyche, that if we all went to the polls and just voted for the neighbor’s cat all would be right again, this really sums it up for me: https://thecontrarianblogger.com/2016/08/24/the-morons-case-for-hillary-clinton-because-some-of-you-really-are-that-stupid/
Anyway, back to lovely Trumpless Zante. We spent about an hour or so on the beach and watched about 10 tour boats come in and dump more and more tourists. So lucky we got there before the crowds. On our way to check out the Blue Caves, we continued cruising along the coast passing more dramatic cliffs, a ruined monastery and a miracle.
After a very nice lunch stop, we started heading back toward Skala. I’ve been on boat trips like this in Greece, but usually with a younger crowd and little kids. Come to think of it, didn’t see many couples with kids or families, but not sure what high season is like. I’m telling you, I was really digging end-of-season Greece. Anyway, after all the sightseeing and swim stopping is done, there’s usually a push to party a bit. Music, drinks, dancing, limbo contests. This crowd could barely move from the outside benches and interior seating, but that didn’t stop Mike from trying to get some forced fun going. He was trying to encourage someone to do the Titanic thing but couldn’t get anyone to volunteer, I mean did he know the average age of the passengers was probably 75? I could see him almost begging me with his eyes from the bridge to volunteer so I just shrugged my shoulders, raised my hand and then I begged him not to let me fall off the boat. He promised to hold me and because I was wearing a dress and it was fairly windy, he promised to preserve my dignity as well.
Yeah, good luck with that Mike.
I think I’m going to have to do one of those all-inclusive posts for the rest of Greece, I’m in Spain now and, as usual, have not kept up.
Thanks so much everyone who hasn’t given up on reading my occasional travel rants!
Love it!! So beautiful, this is on my bucket list ….enjoy yourself and be safe xxxx
Okay, so I’m absolutely, definitely going back next year, around the same time and in the same house. And I have a milestone birthday coming up so maybe you can visit and then we can base jump onto Shipwreck Beach! Or watch someone else base jump onto Shipwreck Beach. I’m in Spain now, way north, enjoying the very Irish weather. Hope all is well chica bonita, hugs to Tubby xoxo
Looks like an awesome trip!! And Mike was just copping a feel 🙂 Thanks for sharing!!
Hi Gerard! It really has been great! And I haven’t even taken my vacation yet! I think Mike was more concerned about my dress blowing around than I was, hahaha! Thanks so much for reading! Big hugs xx