One of the many attractions in this region are the coastal footpaths that connect all 5 villages. I knew that a few of them might be closed during the off-season due to inclement weather or maintenance. I figured I’d be able to walk between two or three villages or at least partially—I didn’t think they would all be closed! What a bummer. When I first arrived Giovanni mentioned that visitors sometimes still hike on the closed paths, but since they are officially closed they do so at their own risk, and I wasn’t taking any chances. I did see a picture of a mudslide that cut the path between Manarola and Corniglia and it wasn’t pretty. He also pointed out all the different ways to get on a different, officially open trail from Manarola to Corniglia and while it was up, up, up and up, that’s the one I was going to take!
So I set out once again up through Mario Andreoli’s vineyard nativity, but this time on a three hour hike to Corniglia. I met some hikers coming from Corniglia, one guy from Spain who gave me a good assessment of the terrain and path conditions. It was great to speak Spanish-Spanish for a few minutes instead of Spanitanglish. He had a drone with him and was hoping to fly it in Manarola for some aerial pics. I need to get me a drone!
The wrong way to Corniglia, the Cinque Terre park lady told me to take path behind the car park but I just couldn’t find it. 
So I went Giovanni’s way. I love these maps! 
And I love graffiti! 
Not really sure what kind of shorts those are but they look great with those socks. I wonder if anyone below me took a picture of my ass and posted it on their blog. I hope so, it only seems fair. 
This is one of my favorite figures, I couldn’t find it at night though so I think the lights are out. 
Beautiful terraced winter vineyards 
Dolphin scene is my second favorite 
Guy on a horse 
Jumping trout? 
Light figure down, light figure down! 
More animals 
I took the exact same photo two days ago 
This one too, exact same! 
Some of the scarier parts of the path, not too many thankfully, some sheer cliffs with almost-too-narrow paths. I might have turned back if I had to descend, I think I may be developing a slight fear of heights in my old age. Or just a greater fear of tripping. 
Signs are everywhere, even I can’t get lost 
See? Very clear. 
And thank goodness there was this one or I would have gone a completely different way 
And this one…fantastic. 
These are actually very good and there are markers everywhere. 
Dammit, guess me and my boar will have to turn around. 
I thought that was Volastra…it wasn’t 
Okay, keep going up up up up!
After an hour or so, I arrived in beautiful, tiny Volastra and I was starving! When I was looking for places to stay, I almost stayed here because it’s well off the beaten tourist track, but there really was only one open restaurant and I didn’t even see a supermarket, so kinda glad I didn’t give into my sometimes-not-so-inner misanthrope. But it was an amazing place to refuel for the rest of the hike to Corniglia!
Pretty tiles 
I want one! 
Locanda Tiabuscion in Volastra 
Beautiful interior 
First course. I ordered the fish tasting menu because, well, why not? 
This was absolutely delicious, some whipped cod morsel 
And this, fantastic! Birdnest big shrimp over whipped chick pea 
I don’t remember what kind of whipped fish this was, but I do remember the yummy polenta 
Second course, flat fresh pasta with mussels and pistachios 
Main course, sea bream with veggies and pickled onions 
Chocolate something with salted caramel, there were two other sweets, but my pics suck and I was already in a food coma 
Done (table next to mine, but that’s how I felt!) 
Volastra woodshed 
Volastra street 
La Chiesa Nostra Signora Della Salute 
Very pretty interior
After that huge lunch, I waddled through town back on the trail to Corniglia. I spent way too much time at Locanda Tiabuscion (so worth stopping, beautiful place, beautiful owner and beautiful food!) and did not want to be stuck on a trail in the dark. Was a little nervous about time because I didn’t have a real good sense of how far I had come, or how far I had to go. And when I asked the owner, he said 1 to 2 hours more and then he shrugged and said “Have more wine, there’s a bus!” I think he thought I was coming from the other way, there’s no bus from Volastra to Corniglia but there is one to Manarola. If there was a bus, I might have been coerced into staying!
The rest of the trail was absolutely stunning. I am so happy the coastal footpath was closed, I can’t imagine the views were as impressive closer to sea level. This path winds through open, terraced vineyards and through pretty green forests that I imagine look much different in every season. I was worried about hiker warnings that some paths were on sheer-ish cliffs with no railings and absolutely terrifying. I am easily terrified by this kind of stuff and while there were some spots that could use a railing, I didn’t have to sit down and maneuver myself up or down using my ass not even once. Oh wait, once, but it wasn’t a cliff, there was a particularly rocky descent close to Corniglia, but I would have been fine if it wasn’t tick-tocking rapidly toward sunset. And right before that, I did pass a woman, maybe a bit older than me, who most likely fell down some wall-face stone steps. She was with with her family and one of them went to get help, but that might have rattled me a little. Enough for me to use my ass to get down to Corniglia.
So thankful for these 
And these… 
These are the best…so 1 hour and 45 minutes to Corniglia, just shy of sunset! 
I could walk on these terraces for hours 
And hours 
And hours 
Views were stunning 
This might be my favorite shot 
Simply magical 
I do wonder what the other path is like 
Maybe it will be open tomorrow 
Off the terraces now and into the woods 
Beautiful and cool, and the winter sun does wonders 
I thought all the upwork was done! 
More? 
So pretty 
I think I started getting a little nervous here that it was going to get dark 
There it is! 
Sun is going down… 
Will I make it? 
Yup…just in time (actually I played with settings on my camera for that one!) 
These images are all over all five towns, love them, they are in weird places and not sure what the story is behind them, and I kinda don’t want to know 
This is exactly what it looked like, no playing around with my light settings. Incredible!
Was such a wonderfully rewarding day! And I don’t think I looked at my computer once, even when I got back to Manarola. That’s a first in a REALLY long time.
Note: I’m migrating my blog to this domain and was going to post during this trip on my old domain, but having trouble updating…if you want to read the previous two posts from this trip, here are links:
anywhereelsewhere.com/zeros-and-fives-and-whats-old-becomes-new
anywhereelsewhere.com/i-think-spanitanglish-is-a-real-thing/
Hi Trish. Just to let you know that I received your email.
These pictures are great. We didn’t do anything as daring, or exciting, as you. We had a car and drove most places, being the lazy Americans that we are. I do have some pictures, and will send to you after your return.
Enjoy and be careful. Love Aunt Georgia
I dunno, driving on Italian roads sounds very daring and exciting to me! Can’t wait to see pics!! xoxo